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#1
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Hi dudes,
so ive finally decided to sort out the damage to the crx. Firstly I went into the motor factors in Galway. I gave them the flint black paint code and they cross referenced it and gave me a rattle can off the shelf. I'll try it first on the old door. I also got a filler kit and a few different grades of sandpaper. My plan is for the scrapes and the odd rust bubble to sand down the existing paint with the rough(dry), then medium (wet), then fine sandpaper(wet) and spray lightly a few coats over a few days. For the heavier work ill need to remove trim and try pull back the bodywork. Then sand down, treat with that rust eater (no rust as far as i can see but no harm) . Then ill fill and try sand it down as perfect as possible. Im not sure about a laquer yet as it may make the rest of the bodywork look dull. Ive read a fair few write ups in the past and its a job i think i can do. My reason for writing this is that id like any input from anyone who has done bodywork. Is any of my plan flawwed? My car is flint black, is it possible to get the 'mettalicy' finish from a rattle can? Do i need a laquer for the lighter scraps,rust bubbles? Thanks for reading. James
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-james d15b 1.5x JDM |
#2
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I presume your including the rear quarter in this to?one of those chasis pullers to straighten it out as best you can anyway.
A you'l get a bit of shiny flint from the spray wihtout the laquer but should be a better match to the colour already as you said as it faded but maybe no harm in one coat?just my thought on it anyway.
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C=R=X |
#3
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a chassis puller? i didnt think that panel was that bad. I was just gonna beat out the panel back to shape and smooth as much as possible with filler. I can kinda get behind it when i take off the bumper.
Ya ill give it a shot and if i think the finish is too dull ill give it a once over coat of laaquer. Im not looking for perfect, just want to tidy it up a bit. Eventually ill probably get the car into a bodyshop and have the whole thing freshened up.....but im talking years in the future!
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-james d15b 1.5x JDM |
#4
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not chassis puller but panel puller thats the name i think.well maybe its not...trying to remember how sever the dent was now.are ya able to get behind all the panel to beat it out?don't think ya'd be able to get at all of it but maybe im wrong.the paint is the least of your worries cause it wont match exactly but you'l get it close enough.would just be more bothered about gettin the panel as straight as possible.
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C=R=X |
#5
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remember that episode of father ted when he tries panel beating
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#6
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few bits of advice...
KRUST feckinG ROCKS... anywhere there is surface rust/looks like rust is coming, lace it on. dont waterit down paint it on nice and thick. 20mins later itll turn any loose rust to metal sand it down and paint it, zinc primer is great. any bare metal hit it with a good few coats of that. HIGH BUILD rocks... when we were fitting the kit isopon filler was sanded with 80grit, nothing more. High build primered like hell, then 2 days of flattening. use the finest paper you possibly can to get the thing as smooth as physically possible before paint... we went as far as 2000grit. car ended like GLASS!!!! you will need lacuer... the paint wont shine at all without it, tbh the likely hood of you getting an OEM esque finish and perfect colour match with cans is low... but very close is possible... using rattle cans the painted areas will need flattened and buffed... 2000grid wet and a good g3 g6 combo with a rotary buffer will bring it up well nice... to get the whole car looking to the same standard of shine then after 2000 and buffing the newly painted areas i would buff the entire car... yes it will take time, a lot of time but the end job will be well worth it. just be careful not to burn thru... or you'll wanna kill yourself... having undertaken a full strip interior and exterior re spay i know the work involved and it does take time... the most important piece of advice i can give.... DONT RUSH.
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91 1.5 gone B and on the way to Mugen... where oh where will it end!! |
#7
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have you got any picts of the damage? would help alot if we knew what ya were tackling. you can get a sliding hammer for 40 euros, handy for pulling out dents or a suction pad for pulling out panels.
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#8
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sliding hammer that much??? sounds dear... i bought one for £11 a few weeks ago for sorting my front end...
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91 1.5 gone B and on the way to Mugen... where oh where will it end!! |
#9
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thanks, very good info. I'll see now if i can get soem damage photos up but theres isnt a great camera at home to use.
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-james d15b 1.5x JDM |
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