Torino Red EF7 H2B

[paul.cherry]

Ordered an Oddessy Pc680 as I wanted to relocate the battery. I was initially going to follow what Paul (C-Rex) had done, though when I got it, it looked like it could fit it where the air intake resonator is on the wheel well...this would free up the battery space for my electric power steering pump.

IMG_20201201_213128 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

I had picked up an astra electric power steering pump a while back as part of the overall project. The standard power steering cannot be used purely down to the lack of space at the passengers side once the engine is in place. Went about mocking up the mounting position today, I don't think it's in too bad a location now. The pipe work should be able to be re-routed along the drivers chassis leg and then back to the rack.

IMG_20201220_153434 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20201220_152213 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20201220_153519 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Lambtech's spectacular welding & precision engineering [|)]

IMG_20201118_090525 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20201118_090530 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20201118_090608 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

After some measuring up & trial fitting it looks like i'll need to enlarge a few bolt holes along with some extra welds to strengthen the main plate up.
My weldings not professional either but some extra "beads" flattening & quick paint (silver paint to finish it), it should do what i need it to do [-o<

IMG_20210114_142203 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210114_142139 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210114_142143 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Not much of an update (end Feb 21), but...
Bonnet off & removed & disconnected the shafts & shift linkages. Eventually got some time to get the engine out. Gave the bay a bit of a de-grease & quick clean up.

IMG_20210208_221046 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210208_222521 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

First time for me removing an engine from a car...actually wasn't that bad/hard to be honest...maybe its easy on an old school Honda

With the wings off, I'm toying with the idea of a small wire tuck now I've got all this space to work round, once the H22 goes in I'll have no room for anything! I'd also thought of painting the bay but I reckon I'll fully strip & re-paint this car in the next couple of years.

[paul.cherry]

After doing some research & speaking to a few other people, it seems it would be wise to go down the aftermarket traction bar route (discodeath on the UK forum was on the money on this one [+] ).

Innovative Traction Bar by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Still not much further progress :roll: but have agreed a purchase of an innovative traction bar so I'm just waiting until it's posted. That'll then let me re-fab my PS pump bracket (needs amended now seeing it'll not be fitted to the original traction bar) & then i'll get the engine dropped in...hopefully!

I have however done a mini wire tuck to tidy it up a wee bit, main fuse box will stay but all wiring has been fitted behind the wings. D/side was de-pinned & fed through an existing chassis hole to the outer wing, just underneath the wiper motor. P/side was fed back into the cabin & back out through an existing A pillar hole just in front of where the door loom exits. All wires have since been tidied & loomed up a bit more from the pictures.

IMG_20210309_214043 by Paul Cherry, on FlickrIMG_20210309_214101 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Got my Innovative Traction bar (mid Apr 21) fitted. This has allowed me to change & mock up the mount/bracket for the power steering pump location.

2021-04-16_09-19-45 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr2021-04-16_09-08-49 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Now, I may still have an issue with the p/side fouling the crank pulley, some guys in the States & like Proudy on the UK forum fitted the radius arms/rods to the lower of the LCA's to allow clearance. There is another solution that is specifically made for this issue which i may go down but it'll be when/if i absolutely need it in the form of below.

2021-04-16_09-24-55 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr2021-04-16_09-25-30 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

This is a solution from Charlie Moua in the states, he makes these specifically for this issue, also does one for the d/side so they both match in design & colour. His pricing is $200 for the curved arm & $100 for the straight. Made from 6061-T Aluminium (he can make them in 7075-T if required). I think shipping is in around $65

[paul.cherry]

Electric Power Steering.
I wasn't really happy in making my own fixing points in the chassis leg or even welding a bracket to it so thought i'd try to re-use existing holes for any possible changes required in the future. Re-used one of the tow brackets along with some scrap metal pieces sitting about, I did some cutting, "persuading" with a hammer, & with some dodgy but passable welding i got this!

IMG_20210415_210044 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr IMG_20210415_210056 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

It clears the headlight surround no problem & clears the standard radiator...just!

IMG_20210415_210323 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr IMG_20210415_210333 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

3rd line added to the reservoir. This is the return for the cooling line, i had thought of blocking this off at the rack or even tying it in with the main return line but thought it might be better to keep it as close to normal as i could. I can always replace the pump but i'd rather not be looking for a crx p/s rack! Just a standard angle barb fitting surrounded in some epoxy to keep it in place.

IMG_20210415_210221 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr IMG_20210415_210228 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr
IMG_20210415_210243 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr IMG_20210415_210250 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Been tackling the wiring the last few nights (work/family/priorities is only allowing me an hour or 2 each week on this whole project!), used the de-pinning kit i had bought a while back which is definitely a great wee job but still some soldering is required.
Couple of issues I've stumbled across & that's holding me back are:

1. Distributor wiring. The h22a7 is obd2, uses 4 pin plug dizzy but also has the crank position/TDC sensor at the crank rather than the dizzy location. So, i'm trying to work out what goes where & from anywhere i've looked online, i can't get a proper wiring diagram that matches my h22a7. They're all noting 8 & 10 pin dizzy's but mines a 4 pin with 4 seperate wires going to the crank pulley location & I can't locate a pinout or wiring diagram. I'm going to run a beep test to see if i can figure out what does what!

2. IACV wiring...i totally missed this as i've now come across numerous posts in several places that i CANNOT run a 3 wire iacv with an obd1 ecu (i've got a chipped P28). Now, there is a post on honda-tech where 1 guy has re-pinned his ecu amongst other wiring & I "think" got it to work but there was no confirmation on it. Looking like i will go with a Rosko Racing re-location kit & am now looking for an obd1/H22a IACV. So...anyone got an h22 iacv & plug they want to let go for pennies lol? More money!

2021-04-19_08-43-35 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr 2021-04-19_08-43-57 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

After much searching & digging around, i came across a thread on honda-tech where one of the guys raised the issue with the rpm signal on an obd2 loom/dizzy. The issue with the obd2 dizzy is the lack of an rpm signal wire so i can connect it to my existing obd0 loom. I think the H22 takes it from the ecu/crank/tdc location, but what he found & sorted was once he opened up the dizzy to have a look, it showed an extra spade connector inside alongside the rest of the wiring. If you cross reference this against the pinout diagrams of the obd0/obd2 diagrams it all added up that it could be used as an rpm signal connection. He's marked it as the solution that worked for him, so i'm going to wire it in & hopefully when i get the engine in & running it'll work for me too!

IMG_20210426_193305 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr IMG_20210426_195445 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Tried to keep it sealed & as stock looking as possible

IMG_20210426_195452 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

[paul.cherry]

Oh, and on another note...i got a 2 wire IACV locally & ordered a Rosco Racing IACV relocation kit so that'll free up some space on the bulk head & sort my IACV wiring/function properly!

2021-04-27_03-12-22 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr 2021-04-27_03-21-01 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

RR-IACV-Relocation-Kit by Paul Cherry, on Flickr