Torino Red EF7 H2B - Page 4

paul.cherry · #31 05-25-2021, 12:08 PM

Rosco Racing IACV relocation kit arrived...didn't take long! Exactly as the website shows. I bought the relocation kit for the "euro" inlet manifold to 2 pin iacv as i wanted some more space between the inlet & the bulkhead but you can just get a conversion plate amongst other applications.
https://roskoracing.com/collections/...relocation-kit

Drilled & tapped a hole in the lower framework of the inlet, bolted in, piped all up & should be good to go! Anyone know if i can just block off the small port at the rear of the inlet (the one with the non return valve attached to it)?

2021-05-05_09-42-28 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210504_212019 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210504_212027 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210504_212033 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

paul.cherry · #32 05-25-2021, 12:09 PM

Some of you may know, (or not know at all!), to set or adjust the H22's timing you have a small window at the flywheel & you use timing marks on the flywheel from there, not from the crank pulley. Now, on an H2B swap this won't work, you have to use a B18/16 flywheel which doesn't have the timing marks & to further the issue, Honda decided that because your supposed to use the H22 flywheel, you wouldn't need any timing marks on the crank pulley...and that wouldn't work for me either even if they did that...i've lathed my pulley down to clear the chassis leg!
To try & sort this so i can time it the conventual way, I've made a start on fabricating a way to make my future endeavours more accessible...(blatantly robbed off an H2B tech thread on Honda-Tech)!

First off, we need to find true TDC. You can match up the cam gears etc but they don't always line up properly (even when it looks to be set perfectly in line) so, I've made a piston stop tool so i can mark the pulley where i need to.

Take one spark plug

IMG_20210515_134151 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Gut the insides of it out.

IMG_20210515_134209 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr
Drill it out to accept a threaded bar. You can either tap it to accept the bar or you can weld a nut to the top (what i did). If you decide to tap it, it'll need a seriously strong tap or heat up the plug in the oven for a while...i destroyed 2 taps trying to tap it before i just welded a nut on top. Spark plugs are very resistant to heat so makes cutting the plug really hard.

IMG_20210515_134227 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

I welded an m/8 nut to the top of the plug (spark plug socket will fit over this), m/8 bar rounded off on the bottom so not to damage the piston & slotted at the top so i can adjust it with a screwdriver when its all inserted into the spark plug hole.

IMG_20210515_141135 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Figure out where you want your pointer to be & secure it so you can mark the pulley.

IMG_20210517_212657 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Turn the crank until the cam gear arrows are pointing upwards & marks aligned to each other on the cam gears), to check...drop a long rod/screwdriver into the spark plug hole & turn the crank until your "inserted tool" [ymca] has reached the top & then just starts to drop back down along with the piston.

IMG_20210517_212707 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Insert the piston stop tool, thread the bar through it until it stops against the piston. Turn the crank anti-clockwise until it stops against the tool, mark the crank pulley. Turn the crank clockwise until it stops, mark the crank pulley. Exactly halfway between that is your 0 degrees TDC. I used a piece of paper to measure the length...fold in half, align it back to the pulley & mark your true TDC.

IMG_20210518_195542 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

*Stolen from Honda-Tech*
"Diameter * 3.1416 / 360 * 16 to get the 16 degree mark, notch. Do the same calculation to get the 14 and 18 degree marks"

2021-05-20_02-18-38 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

I put a small bit of touch up paint on my marks so they're easy to spot with the light if needed. Hopefully i've marked it all correctly now!

paul.cherry · #33 05-25-2021, 12:12 PM

IT FITS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!...just about!

IMG_20210519_235200 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210519_235205 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210519_235946 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210520_004842 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210520_004851 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

paul.cherry · #34 06-22-2021, 06:58 AM

Just to follow on from my last update above, once i'd dropped all in & bolted all up it seemed to look a bit funny/crooked after when i stepped back to "pat myself on the back" lol. The rear mount bolt was quite tight to get fitted & had to refit the mounts in order of, engine, rear, then the gearbox. Mmm, something not right!

IMG_20210521_092707 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210524_131332 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210521_092651 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

I set up a plumb line, inline with the rocker cover just to take some measurements & confirm my eyes weren't just crossed/cooked themselves!

IMG_20210521_093348__01 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210521_093447 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210521_093434 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

FFS...raging wouldn't describe my thoughts at this point...35mm/1.5" of a difference. I didn't know what to think, worst of all I now started to think was the car twisted and had I totally missed this before or what?

paul.cherry · #35 06-22-2021, 07:01 AM

I started to scroll through all the H2B EF threads i've used before for info to see if i could find anyone in the same situation & then i came across a post on Instagram of another guy i follow in the states (he actually made me aware of the curved radius rods from Charlie). His engine mount looked totally different to mine (he's running a Brough plateless kit). I messaged him for info & he replied saying he used his b swap mount onto a Brough engine post mount that was supplied with the kit!
Bingo!!! I had a mount from my kit that I didn't use...exactly the same shape as his, i had ordered a D-H engine mount thinking that was perfect. I have since found out that it is perfect...if your for using the H series gearbox rather than the B series gearbox!

My EF-H conversion mount:

2021-05-28_09-45-04 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Brad's mount:

Screenshot_20210525-015518__01 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

My conversion post mount...which i didn't think i needed!

IMG_20210524_133006 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210524_133011 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

And how it fits against the CRX-H swap mount, as you can see...it doesn't [xx(]

IMG_20210525_012148 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

paul.cherry · #36 06-22-2021, 07:03 AM

Right then...the saga continues

Got a B series mount of Lee from the FB page, i swapped out the bushings from the original H swap mount i'd ordered so they'd both match. Tried to mount it to the post bracket which i got as part of LambTech's h2b kit, nothing lined up ffs, even though it looked like it would!

2021-06-18_09-15-34 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

2021-06-18_09-05-34 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

It is very close to lining up but the bolt patterns are are still a good bit off! I don't know whether its the post bracket, or the mount isn't for the ef chassis. I do reckon its the engine bracket that is wrong...shouldn't be that surprised due to my previous exceptional experience with Lambtech :roll:
Even if the bolts did line up, the block is [u]still</u> sitting too far forward on the p/side (1-1.5").

Decided i'd amend some of the bolt holes on the rear mount to move it back slightly so it could maybe allow me some extra swivel/twist room but nothing seemed to help

2021-06-18_09-06-19 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

2021-06-18_09-06-44 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

So i lost the plot! Threw on the H22 engine bracket, switched the bushings again & fitted all up with the H swap mount to see the difference, it all bolts up, (with some spacers to help), but the block is still in the same position. Either way, it looks like i'll have to fab my own engine bracket.

It is hard to see the angle but, the top corner of the rocker really needs to be in line with the upper wishbone bold on the strut tower

2021-06-18_09-05-57 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

I got a chatting to Proudy there the other night & he said he re-used his b mount but had to modify the bolt locations on the bracket to make it all fit, what's really really getting me is even if i get an engine bracket fabricated properly to fit, the p/side all mounted up, square & level throughout, the T bracket end location is going to be way past the bolt holes in the mount...this is doing my nut in!
Innovative confirmed i've definitely got the proper d-b gearbox swap mount, but can't help me on the h2b factor for the p/side as they obviously don't supply an h2b kit.

Is there any difference in a proper rear conversion mount to just re-locating the existing mount to the hole on the right side of the crossmember like the pics above?

The only images i can find online that gives me an idea of what to do are below:

h2bmotormountbracket2 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

h2bmotormountbracket1 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

It's of a members h2b build on an Integra on the D-Series forum, this bracket he's made puts the mount a good bit forward so then levels the block & the shafts up properly. You can see where the corner of his rocker cover is compared to mine, he's inline...i'm not :?

It still doesn't help my rear mount situation though! Any bright sparks on here have any ideas where i've gone wrong or do i just amend the rear T bracket & be done with it??

paul.cherry · #37 06-22-2021, 07:05 AM

So, i made a bit more progress on this over the weekend there.
Got the block levelled up & in as best a place as i could so i could make an engine bracket to suit. I was initially going to hack up the standard h22 bracket but decided to use the lambtech one incase i messed up & then needed to revert to the h22 one!

Engine lined up & in place:

2021-06-21_12-21-25 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

CAD template fabricated (cardboard aided design)

2021-06-21_12-21-42 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210619_161338 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

IMG_20210619_161332 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Fitted:

IMG_20210619_164247 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Both sides bolted up & sitting pretty damn straight, i'm quite please with myself considering i'd never pulled an engine out of a car until this one!

IMG_20210619_164242 by Paul Cherry, on Flickr

Just need to amend the rear T bracket a bit more & ill then be able to start building it all back up! I'm hoping maybe the end of July (realistically) to be able to get it back out [^]

Serious question...I haven't changed anything on the V5 to say what's been done (i will have it insured with the H22 noted), is this something i should or is it something i need to do?
Anyone that is aware of the local authorities in NI will know the MOT centres can be "different", as in, they are pretty brutal & can be heavy handed when it comes to MOT time! Police wise, i can't see many issues other than being insured properly but having the H22 on the V5 could quite possibly crucify me in license tax! (i haven't checked it out though). Any advise? What have any of you done before re engine swaps?